SF Chronicle feature writer Bill Addison goes in search of the transcendent taqueria and puts 85 beloved Bay Area burrito joints to the test:

Taquerias are an indelible part of the Bay Area’s food culture. They provide their customers — blue- and white-collar workers, college students, families of all backgrounds — with the region’s indigenous fast food. They’re a near-ubiquitous presence in almost every area, neighborhood and town.

And, whoa, do they encourage fierce loyalty and ferocious debate. The focal point of that debate, though, is centered on the foil-wrapped, barrel-shaped burrito.

He didn’t visit the two closest to us, but I drive past Tacos El Grullense in Redwood City on my way home from B&N.; Never stopped there though.

What’s that? Restaurant reviews? Yeah, I suppose I could start that back up. I’ve neglected it for months.